2/17 email to Megan, father, and mother

Here I am, in Ramallah. The office was converted from a big apartment, and is now a smokey workplace. When I came in, Maren and Jamal (the coordinator) were really nice, and asked me a lot about Birthright, and why I was in Ramallah. They advised me to get rid of my Birthright phone, because in the past people have gotten calls asking if they had contacts in Palestine, etc. And now I have the job, if I want it. I moved my stuff into the flat, right around the block, where the other volunteers live. Aiden, Paul, and Mohammed (who i have yet to meet) all live there. The toilet doesn't work (you have to use a bucket to flush it) and they aren't using the heater to save money. But the work seems really interesting and satisfying. They do a lot of outreach to the Global South (a term that Maren used), they oppose "normalization" with Israel-which I am grappling with but coming around to. They oppose economic normalization, but also things likesummer camps where Israelis and Palestinians get together.. Why? Because this promotes the idea of equality when things are materially not equal. They don't want to have this idea of a false sense of peace when in fact Palestinians do not have the right of return, refugee status, etc. I'm still grappling with it, though. Seems counter-intuitive to me. A lot of the work is compiling news reports, documenting demonstrations, and outreach to activist communities and organizations around the world (especially the Global South). On March 31 there is an international day of BDS- Boycott, Divestment, Sanctions, which the organization started, I think. All together, there can't be more than 10 people working here, although many people come and go. The organization is actually an umbrella organization for Palestinian associations and NGOs. They all come together under the same banner and do things like international outreach.
Coming here was interesting. In East Jerusalem, a Palestinian part of Jerusalem but outside of the wall, (around the time I talked to you on the phone) I started noticing graffiti-"Fuk Israel," a star of David crossed out, "[a star of David] = fascism," and a lot more in Arabic. Then, I went through the checkpoint at Kalandia, on the way to Ramallah. On the way into the West Bank they don't stop you-just on the way out. The murals and graffiti was amazing-really amazing- inside of the wall. Anyway, I'm safe, and I'm sure I'll be fine. Maren is Italian, and she's been living here for 3 or 4 years without a problem. Paul, from San Mateo, has been here over a year volunteering and teaching English without any issues. Aiden, who has been here for 4.5 months has been fine, too. Anyway, there is very little sign of the occupation within Ramallah - it's occupation-lite here. Everyone I've met is really genuinely nice, and I'm told that that's the way it is here. Other details... beside being filled with cigarette smoke, there's a lot of political posters here, and a whole bunch of posters of maps detailing the occupation. Also, there's a whole bunch of Che. In the apartment (which is actually pretty spacious), I'm in the living room for now, but Aiden is leaving in 2 weeks, so I'll probably take over in his room. From the back window, there's a view of an Israeli settlement on top of a hill- maybe a mile away. More... I guess I'll have the opportunity to travel a lot within the West Bank, and to take photos for the organization. Anyway, I could still change my mind, but somehow I doubt it. So, there it is.
I love you so so much. I guess I'll get a new phone soon. Oh, and I have to go to Jerusalem to get a stamp in my passport (or the equivalent), so I can clear checkpoints. Love and miss you. Sorry I'm going to be gone so long. mike